large crosscut sled

on Introduction. I will just reuse them in the future.Thanks for the advice on setting it up. 6 years ago

I didn't want to use 3/4" stuff because it seemed very heavy.

Hey Tod, thanks for the explanations. This is definitely going to be a "super favorite" (ie: downloaded, saved AND, printed) Instructable of mine. On top of the fence is an Incra T-track plus with a rule and a T-track stop. Hand plane works just as well. check out the. Hello, this is my first post since signing up a few days ago.

I am replacing 3 sleds with this one, and I now have the precision and flexibility of a zero clearance for any cross cut I can make. Power tools can set the screws too deeply and pull the insert down. 3 - After the runner is attached, raise the blade and trim off the excess. They should sit about 1/16" shallow of your miter slot, but be very tight on the sides. A crosscut sled is a movable attachment that slides into the slots of the table saw. I use the plastic rails, they slide nicely and can be sanded to fit. What's that for?

Crosscut sleds are essential for woodworkers with traditional table saws.

. This method works well for me and is pretty foolproof. With a couple neat tricks, you can really expand the usefulness of this jig. Without removing your edge guide, change to a 1/4" diameter router bit and then route a 1/4" groove all the way through the board.


They make cross cutting operations a lot more accurate, a lot cleaner, and a lot safer. tall and just fits under my saw. If not, use your sandpaper block to adjust the fit. After cutting runners that fit, did they need a bunch of additional sanding and waxing after attaching them to the sled? Woodworking is essentially pattern making.

In addition always were personal protective equipment. I then measured 1/8" to the left to account for the blade tilted at 45 degrees 3 - From those reference points. True those slots up, and I bet your problems are greatly reduced. So you don't have any runners in the miter slots? You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. It looks nicer and takes abuse a bit better.

**USE CAUTION** This instructable involves the use of various power tools. Locate the side of the crosscut sled fence where you were careful not to let the 1/2" plywood overhang, and place it against your tablesaw fence. There are many ways to attach runners to cross cut sleds. From there I marked the blade kerf so I could begin creating my layout. If it is still good, I will drive in the rest. 5 years ago

Any suggestions for making runners without a planer? 2 - Put 1 half of the plywood on top of the saw, overlapping the blade a little. After that I remove the sled from the tale saw, flip it over and drive a few 3/4" brads to the runners. To attach the sled to the runners: 1. Woodworkin…

35$ for the sheet.

x 60-in.)

All times are GMT-5. I had planned on using it for a new sled.

When you finally tune them up, all your sleds will be sloppy. Also laminate and granite/stone kitchen countertops are generally dead flat. Yes and no.

Once that was complete. It's likely the runners will need a little tweaking to slide smoothly. 7 years ago You have given me some good ideas. Take long and even strokes on each side of the rail; checking progress frequently until your are happy with the results. 24" deep is pretty deep for a cross-cut sled on that type of saw. I also coat them with Johnson's paste wax often. Be aware of the blade kerf on your full width dado cuts when inserting screws. Be careful with the pressure you place on the wood.

The T-Track starts 3" from the edge with the fence, and 6" from the front of the sled. ..FN.. I cut the 3/4" piece and the two 1/2" pieces long so I could trim them to seize after.Important step The base of the fence needs to be dead flat. Cut your 1/2" plywood slightly oversize as well.

I bet Todd used Incra's runners. You want to avoid rounding the toe or heal of the runner too much.

Get some PSA sandpaper, your micrometer, and a stick. Plunge the bit into the hole and with a long T-Square, draw a line where your edge guide should go. Else you could end up just living with it for years. This makes it difficult to use it as a template in the future Once you have your Inserts installed, cut your kerf, I then created one for a 1/2" dado cut and a 45 degree miter cut, as well as different inserts for different blades I use. For the backer, I used 3/4" plywood. Now set up a router and a straight edge guide. Alignment here is not at all critical. Apply some tape to the edges of your miter slots. You can do everything from cut down large sheets to make extremely accurate cuts. You have now created a perfectly square reference edge.

Try to keep the weight centralized over the runners as not to warp the sled. Truing the miter slots should be done before spending any time trying to fit runners or making sleds.

Great job. Not cheap, tho. The reason I cut the 3/4" piece oversize is so I would have a reference surface to square your fence. With the fence attached, I further verify the alignment using the 5 cut method and make adjustments as necessary Once this is complete I give the entire bottom of the sled a coating of furniture paste wax, I attached both the bottom insert and the fence insert with countersunk holes.

Maybe for the sled application he has lowered the rollers just for the runners. This gives you a nearly perfect flat sanding surface. First. The workpiece to be sawn then rests against a wooden fence at the front of the sled so that it does not slip. Of course, unless you have an out feed table.

I also installed a T track on top of it for a stop block. Vicious circle..!!! Normally a jointer can take care of this, but plywood is REALLY rough on jointer blades. There are essentially 2 things I want to lay out before moving forward: 1.

About: IT professional that likes to play with tools. In the booklet the front fence (on the far side) has a quarter-circle-shaped cut-off on one side of the blade track. Thanks. With a known good speed square, I carefully adjust the fence until it is square on both sides, then drive the screws in. Any thoughts on how to keep them smooth and solid? thick Baltic birch plywood to make my sled’s base, which is 36-in. Reply Normally I go with handmade wood stuff, but I guess this counts as buying a tool.

How to Make a Better Cross Cut Sled: Crosscut sleds are essential for woodworkers with traditional table saws.

Where ever possible, use all of the safety guards that the manufacturer provided, and understand how to use the tool.

The insert is not glued, just inserted for alignment.I clamped this to my bench so it would remain flat.

Here you can see some of my layout lines. Why two runners?

A backer with a removable insert. The outfeed rollers would be in the way, I'd think as I see it. I alternate sizes so the runner remains even 2. However given the hassle and expense, simply making new holes seems to be a better option.

I sure spent enough time adjusting it. This is going on my todo list. How wide should it be? 4 years ago. list for too long. How are you supported on the infeed side? After the outermost screws are set, I verify the alignment. I applied glue and followed the same process that I did for attaching the base. Currently completing this project right now and loving the design, excited to use on my new-to-me table saw.

When using the quartersawn face, it will expand vertically. It keeps them sliding smooth and adds a tiny bit of protection.

Before this step, I drilled counterbored holes in the bottom of the sled and started the two outermost screws With the kerf cut, I insert a rule from a combination square that is the same thickness as the kerf.

Wondering if you wish you would have used threaded inserts for holding the ZC insert or have you not had any issues taking the wood screws in and out for replacement?

on Introduction.

That is the reason for the holes in the top of the sled.

Do not install the sacrificial insert yet, Alignment of the rear fence is the most critical part of this project. Some use plywood, I like to use hardwood here. The only down side (and in my opinion the fun side) is that you have to make jigs to do just about anyt… I grabbed "handy panels" which are basically 1/4 sheets of plywood and roughly 24" by 48", I want my sled to be 36" long. Once your sled slides well, cut a kerf line from the front of the sled to right about where the back fence will be. I also added my miter bar from my other sled. In this case I didn't need a long open time, so I used gorilla white wood glue (not the polyurethane glue) which sets up rather quickly. This is harder work than a planer or even a hand plane, but you can get some pretty good results this way. Tablesaw crosscut sledsare a great accessory for your tablesaw, making it easier to get consistently square and repeatable cuts than when using a miter gauge. Having an insert specific to a blade ensures a zero clearance and a cut that is as clean as possible. However you don't want to make a sled too big, because at some point there will be too much sled off the end of the table top and it will become unbalanced. Drill holes in another set of inserts and install them. If you make a shorter sled to fit under your saw you’ll reduce the sled’s 24-in. 6 - attach your front fence. I used a 12" piece of Ash I had. Sometimes the blade goes past the fence.
You can also see the hold down clamp that rides in the T-tracks I cut. Have you trued your miter slots? Tuning the runners properly after assembly is easy - and necessary if only one is installed anyway. This is also based on John Nixon's super sled. I have been doing a fair bit of reading and this site is great! I'm waiting for my door to die to get windows in mine. You will have the same problem with a single runner. Actually it pretty much is the super sled with sacrificial inserts. 6 years ago It's sanded pine. It's much safer for small pieces, Thanks everyone!

That may be because the slots in the table are not truly parallel or because tightening the fasteners on the sled caused a distortion, making the runners non parallel.

With a couple neat tricks, you can really expand the usefulness of this jig. You want a very firm fit with no side-to-side play, but smooth back and forth motions. NOTE - this was not glued in place.

The more you take off the more likely you will create an unwanted angle in the wood. It’s also a pain in the neck to get two miter slot bars aligned properly.

Insert your runners and apply some glue. It will be slightly off the surface of the table saw I leave this for 4 to 6 hours. Did you make this project? I use puck board for rails, slides well, machines well and costs are low especially if you have some ;), Man, this is turning into a serious project on its own. I first lined up my edge pieces to the layout lines. Sizing Your Sled. the rear fence gives the sled rigidity. I use a fairly fine grit when I do this and try to have a light touch with the wood.

My wife also does a lot of woodworking …. I actually picked up a very large cutting board from Sam's Club for $8. I then counterbore some holes and secure the rear fence with screws. Do this for all 4 Now is also a good time to sand the top and bottom surfaces. A jig like this helps make repeatable, precision cut patterns easier. I am very impressed with your design.

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